In the middle of Romania, 2.5 hours by train north of Bucharest lies Transylvania, also known as Siebenbürgen. As the name suggests, this is a historically German area. From the 1200s onward, there was high immigration, especially from northern Germany. The Saxons were industrious, and a lack of land drove them southward. Transylvania was sparsely populated and well-suited for agriculture, and the Hungarian king invited the Saxons to settle here. They established many towns and villages, and even today they leave a strong mark on the region.
Brasov, Sigishoara, Medias, and Sibiu are four of the seven fortified cities that gave the region its name.
I visited these towns while hiking through the area, following the Via Transilvanica. You can read about the hike itself here: Via Transilvanica. Hiking in Transylvania, Romania
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Sigishoara
As mentioned, I was on a hiking trip and naturally arrived in Sigishoara on foot. From the hill south of the town, I got a good overview. Surrounded by newer developments, the old town sits elevated, crowned by the impressive “Church on the Hill.” Parts of the old city wall are still visible, with several towers, including the clock tower with its enormous dials, visible from most parts of town.
After 15 kilometers on foot through forest terrain, it was lovely to rest. I found a shady bench in the flower-filled Hermann Oberth Park, just below the clock tower. There I sat for half an hour, observing flirting teenagers and a few elderly folks enjoying their bottles.
Once my legs had the rest they needed, I was ready for the final stretch—up the steep, cobbled streets to the old town. Narrow alleys lined with colorful 16th-century houses bustled with tourists. In the square in front of the photogenic clock tower, crowds gathered for selfies and group photos, but I decided to save the sightseeing for tomorrow. Right now, the priority was a cold beer in the shade.
And in that respect, I got lucky with my booking. The little guesthouse with only two rooms was just a couple of minutes from the tower. Up yet another steep and narrow street on stiff legs, a flower-filled side alley revealed itself. The guesthouse on one side of the street, and a small beer garden on the other. Perfect.
Sigishoara was founded by the Saxons in the 13th century and the old town rightfully holds a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It’s a brilliant example of a medieval fortified town where nearly the entire old town is preserved.
You can certainly Google “What to do in Sigishoara,” but the simple advice is just to stroll around the cobbled streets and admire the old houses, visit some of the other nine towers, maybe climb the 14th-century clock tower for a view, or sit down at one of the many outdoor cafes for a traditional meal or a cold refreshment.
Or you can climb the covered stairway to the town’s highest point, where the church is located. It’s Gothic, from the 15th century, and fairly simple in form. The staircase and its cover date from the 16th century and were built to protect the students walking up to the “School on the Hill” next to the church.
Medias
Medias was the end point of my hike, and I should have, like a traveler from old times, arrived walking through the city gate. But the weather wasn’t great, so I ended the hike in Bieslan a couple dozen kilometers away and arrived in Medias less historically accurately—by bus.
Like Sigishoara, Medias has a large old town surrounded by a wall—or more precisely, parts of a wall with towers—and a citadel. It’s one of the old fortress towns founded by the Saxons. But the town doesn’t have the dramatic setting of Sigishoara, which is picturesquely perched on a hill. The upside is that there are far fewer tourists in Medias, and you avoid the Disneyland feeling with endless souvenir stands and outdoor restaurants that Sigishoara offers.
So in Medias, you can wander around anonymously, admiring the old houses and towers, relax in the large central park, and perhaps visit the church Biserica Sfânta Margareta. It’s one of the famous fortified churches that are unique to Transylvania. These were built as combined places of worship and defensive structures. Read more here: Fortified Churches in Transylvania – Romania
Sibiu
During the hike, I chatted with a German woman who spoke very highly of Sibiu, located in the southwestern part of Siebenbürgen. Perhaps because it’s the most German of the towns. In any case, I jumped on a train from Medias for an overnight stop in Sibiu.
And I was not disappointed. The old town can certainly rival Sigishoara, fortunately with somewhat fewer tourists. Around the large central square, 16th-century houses stand close together, and in the background rises the cathedral Sfânta Maria. There you can see the beautiful organs and climb the tower for a view of the town and countryside.
Brasov
Brasov is the largest of the Siebenbürgen towns and the main gateway to the region, with an international airport and good train connections to Bucharest.
Although the city is large, it has a well-preserved old town that we tourists are naturally drawn to. The old town is car-free, and along its wide, cobbled pedestrian street are many restaurants and lively activity. Points of interest include several towers from the 16th century and the Black Church, named after a city fire in 1689 that turned it black.
Also worth a visit is the old fortress Bastionul Țesătorilor, right above the cathedral. In addition to the fortress, you’ll find a small historical museum here.
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